tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35113437023431461052024-03-13T21:20:56.614+00:00The Road to over thereAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.comBlogger22125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-13920680550434361922014-11-20T17:49:00.000+00:002014-11-20T17:49:39.467+00:00Martin Mere<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Had a great day at Martin Mere which is run by the Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust at Tarlscough, Burscough, Lancashire. Really beautiful place and despite the rain I managed to take a few shots and was even lucky with the evening light when the sun popped out for 10 minutes for the Mute Swans arrival.
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Mute Swan displaying dominance
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<img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizCxJ6htOC470V0UxZri8NbQSZcRTRT6p4rVve-5dyr6bpEx7R0VRvGvzdZfxT_hyphenhyphenhOBOOsC_YiBi0ZvJq9YFGiBcYjZN8Y7PI47MGofQo9asW7vlwz0K4pN4BzC-OGIlzrF1oKhDb9PwW/" height="333" width="500" /><br />
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Mute Swan displaying dominance
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<img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg08Ha55s93POgPRAWe14RwpU_P1Bi0aQp0Qe5hdJYHvO-q7FI-raHnw0nh4n_0WwICABzfcPkJ-Xj-wkZs0hsxkndtp0ZtQYeGEWoHz9-d20E8zIpu5JmfpHSNRweXsUuA3mGRuptSDDFg/" height="333" width="500" /><br />
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Pintail
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<img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNic9r32uoQ4iykHLdXgeuOQGWl9Wsrvz_8TNGHlLfrBZRHVXDTWsbYVvty5MQZ_IeKT_P1drhgtz70ielgk70n0vnXkvYE8Gt2pSqM2n_9llJENmWSK66EqQZBUTJi9eYWwQe4g-fBnKg/" height="333" width="500" /><br />
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Shelduck
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<img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNnjIr0MNodGhhK283BTCRjdfghJtt0CqoAJ2PY51karVOq_bnJtIgbPPRACli0EzY6JVk6-vGHvaBoZ29shd7cbA0FT1TcNW_b0I8AyNMT1TP8imGBaIGlL2X9q7VmuKPcX4Slh5bnMhD/" height="333" width="500" /><br />
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Mute Swan displaying dominance
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<img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7fmeLYXDv_SJ1Rm4hlOvuHKN4X096YRg_Ecci2VVmfTKBGShASqvD3kvLBKTancOb9agwszpKVFC112_u10_-oz5Bfs0UF0VxDCLvYaTXfnB4LI8BA2NlK8yrY9tbPxjbIvsx9mh4DiG0/" height="500" width="333" /><br />
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Mute Swan displaying dominance
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<img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAvywwrQDLaOVoCKFez4L6BQ4b8rAlIzZkDBYQD42babWAVT3IMf9WPI4gI56Lsx34BB1tQ-4wrMVdup3DdCihm_DjUeJOQTWCdphPfF1LC1FgfGxKn1Q545P7O1ysX7_0W3RMomiEOPmq/" height="500" width="333" /><br />
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Whooper Swan
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Shelduck
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Coot, evening swim
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Widgeon
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Red Crested Pochard
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Greenshank
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-26248996581334954022014-07-05T17:52:00.001+01:002014-07-05T17:54:28.017+01:00Landscapes so far<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
And these are our favourite landscapes so far. There is a museum in Husavik with a display showing the US astronauts practicing their 'lunar' landings in the early 1960's. When you see some of these landscapes you will understand why!!<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-31794010129529500862014-07-05T17:27:00.005+01:002014-07-05T17:32:01.722+01:00Iceland 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We have been in Iceland for 16 days and this is the first opportunity to put anything on the blog as the wifi at campsites, if it exists, is unreliable. We are now, however, taking refuge from the awful weather in a B&B that has a good connection to the internet so heres the update.<br />
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Our trip here was fairly uneventful. The ferry from Harwich to Esbjerg was good and the sea was kind. We drove through Denmark to the port at Hirtshals for the ferry to Seydisfjordur in Iceland. Campsites were excellent everywhere and hundreds to choose from. We had a couple of days to make the journey so took the long way round via the coast road and very beautiful it was too (if not a little flat!!!).<br />
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Arriving at the ferry port early in the morning we joined the organised chaos that accompanies boarding the ferry. Hundreds of campers and 4x4s crushed onto a makeshift car park awaiting instructions for boarding. It appears we are all in the hands of the Captain of the vessel who will decide when we start. That decision wasn't made for several hours (even though we all appear to be here!). When we received our invitation to board we inched forward and once on the dock there was a surprise for us all. Boarding staff came round all the vehicles with the instruction that all passengers in vehicles must board the ferry on foot, with their luggage. Only the drivers could stay with their vehicles! When we asked why, staff just shrugged their shoulders and said "it's the Captains instructions." Now this seemed a strange anti-terrorism measure to me, if indeed that is what it is. I think it more likely that this Captain has a psychotically perverse sense of humour because within a few minutes the dock resembled a scene of desperation as holidaying refugees exited vehicles, kissing loved ones farewell and carrying suitcases, bags and children onto a bus. The bus then drove a few hundred yards, disgorging the refugees onto the ferry via the foot passenger entry point. The only people missing from the scene were the Red Cross and the United Nations! Once reunited with Looby on the vessel we found our cabin and the facilities on board were excellent.<br />
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Our trip to Iceland was a little more exciting with a bit more rocking and rolling on the sea, especially after the Faroe Islands.<br />
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The wildlife here is amazing. Birds that are harder to find in the UK are here in large numbers. And the landscapes are pretty amazing too.....even in the bad weather. Hopefully we'll get a chance for more of an update but here are my favourite birdy pics so far. I've put the landscapes on a seperate page.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-29865036067751192272014-05-12T16:36:00.000+01:002014-05-12T16:39:45.819+01:00Greece 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I'm ashamed to say that we had too much fun in Greece to find time to update our blog. The photos can be viewed at <a href="http://stevehorstedphotography.com/#/gallery/greece-the-peloponnese-and-evia/gr13035/">Steve Horsted Photography.com</a>. I still have a few to sort through so there will be more to view shortly.<br />
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So, Greece. To me there definitely seemed to be a 'hangover' atmosphere with the battering that they have had in their financial crisis. In fact almost everyone we came into contact with mentioned it at some point in our conversation. However, one thing that hasn't been affected by those snivelling greedy bankers and incompetent politicians is the welcome that travellers get everywhere in Greece. The warmth and generosity displayed is at times overwhelming. Part of our trip was to experience the celebration of Easter and for this we stayed in the village of Vlasio in the mountains south of Patra. After attending the local church to experience the Greek Orthodox celebrations on the Saturday evening, on Sunday morning we went for a walk around the village to enhance our appetite for the forthcoming feast (bbq) that was being cooked up at the hotel. Everywhere we walked people were celebrating with their own bbq's and without exception we were invited into their yards or houses to join in. Our Greek guide explained people would be offended if we refused so our initial plan to work up an appetite backfired somewhat. With generous portions being cut off the whole sheep that was turning on the spit and the compulsory glass of local vino that accompanied it we returned to the hotel some 3 hrs later...........ooh....just in time for some more bbq'd lamb and.....locally produced vino. It was clear the Greek spirit is alive and kicking and wherever we went (and we covered about 2,500 miles in Greece) we received the same warm welcome. Can't wait to return. <br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-60092138724470230172013-07-31T18:43:00.001+01:002013-07-31T18:43:49.394+01:00The Spanish Pyrenees<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Apologies to anyone following us as there hasn't been an update for a while. We have met up with a fine group of overlanders to travel the Pyrenees and there hasn't been much time to update the blog. Initially we feared that our fuel leak would prevent us from joining the trip but our guide, Paul Blackburn of Onelife Adventure reassured us that our issue was minor and the dust and mud we were about to encounter would probably seal the leak. That's my kind of solution.<br />
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The other folk on the trip are a pleasure to travel with and the tracks we have encountered have been magnificent. The only draw back has been that I suffer from vertigo and some of these routes have tested my bowel control to its limit. Apologies to my co-pilot. The air in the cab was often blue! but we survived. If you have a 4x4 vehicle and never travelled the Pyrenees it comes highly recommended.....just don't look down!<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-52662979172999520882013-07-21T11:36:00.001+01:002013-07-21T11:36:23.982+01:00Little men<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Although our campsite at St Victoire is in the perfect location it had two negatives. 1. It only has one toilet! This is not the place to get a tummy upset when you need 'instant access' to the facilities at less than short notice! The second negative was about 5'1'' (in his wife's high heels) and he patrolled the site on his panzer cycle. This was the St Victoire Commandant. I think he could have been much taller but he appeared to be weighed down by the moustache under his nose. The Commandant belongs to that negative side of European history - the short dictator. Napoleon Bonaparte, Joseph Stalin, Mussolini, Berlusconi. What's the reason for this admiration? Well I fell foul of 'sitting at the wrong table'. I was using the internet on my iPad and had been for some time when he walked past. Several metres later he stopped and hesitated, staring at me. He then came back speaking French and waving his arms in the air and pointing to a table several feet away. To cut a long story short, the table I was at was"private" and the table over there, was "for internet". Having made his point, he then walked off to a safe distance, struck a 'Mussolini' pose, hands on hips and bottom lip curled over the top lip, and awaited my compliance. My motionless response then provoked a little English. He rushed over asking if I understood and amusing as it was to wind this little man up I decided perhaps it was better to retire and left the little fella strutting his stuff in 'the private area'.<br />
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Moving swifly on the next day we made our way to Sunbilla in Spain where we are meeting some others to travel the Pyrenees. The campsite is a beautiful spot and we have a couple of days rest to recover before completing our journey. Only one small fly in the ointment. We have developed a small leak on our diesel pipes that will probably require dropping the tanks to fix so we will have to manage that over the next few days.<br />
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Theres a bar here run by Ma Jesus!</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-28868433106049005112013-07-20T13:00:00.001+01:002013-07-21T10:36:24.929+01:00Paying homage to a genius in Aix-en-Provence<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Having survived the 'Wolf Whisperer' of old Barrea Town we made the long drive to a campsite in St Gimignano in Tuscany. There is no doubt Tuscany is one of our favourite destinations and it doesn't matter how many times I photograph that St Gimignano skyline it always appears like new. The campsite and the wifi were expensive (and the wifi didn't work) and everyone was crammed in but the place did have one bonus that we treasured. We were pitched next to delightful couple from Hamburg in Germany, retired teachers Sylvi and Dirk. After two bottles of wine and some of Dirks grappa I'm afraid I had a Basil Fawlty moment and mentioned 'the war'. But our host (teacher of history) graciously batted me off. We had some more grappa and I was carried off to bed at about 01:00. Sylvi and Dirk, we hope to meet you again on the road. Prost!<br />
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Our next destination was, for me, very special. Since my early days at Art School (many decades ago) I have been in awe of the paintings of Paul Cezanne so the opportunity to visit the great mans studio was too good to miss. The visit didn't get off to a great start as the only two campsites in Aix were full. But as with other bits of this trip that haven't gone according to plan there was a bonus. The campsite we were redirected to was half empty but more importantly it was right under <i>the MOUNTAIN - </i>Monte St Victoire. For the majority of you it will mean nothing I'm sure but Monte St Victoire was one of Cezannes returning themes and he painted it many times. Please bear with this self indulgence.<br />
We got up very early to drive into Aix as we would have to do quite a bit of walking to visit the studio and the very spot where Cezanne painted Monte St Victoire and by 10:00 in the morning it's 35c here. As it turned out this was a great decision as we got our visit to his studio completed just before three coach loads of tourists turned up!<br />
This truly was a special moment. Everything left as he left it including hat a coat on hooks. I don't doubt it was all genuine.....if it wasn't I was buying it hook line and sinker! Probably the closest I will come to achieving any artistic success.........a photo on the doorstep of the studio of a genius!<br />
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Sitting on the doorstep of a genius!</div>
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The genius</div>
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The mountain - Monte St Victoire from the very spot he painted it from!</div>
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Paul Cezanne's studio, Aix-en Provence</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-56611279431855237652013-07-19T20:09:00.000+01:002013-07-20T11:08:52.475+01:00Meeting the Wolf Whisperer of Barrea<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Reluctantly leaving Matera (and our Gucci hotel treat) we headed north. I plucked a camp ground from an Alan Rogers recommendation and we arrived late in the afternoon at the campsite in Barrea. As we approached the reception cabin we noticed an elderly man sporting a large white beard and a balding head, looking like 'uncle Albert' from Only fools and Horses, standing in the middle of the road who, on spotting our approach, immediately began to button his shirt and make himself presentable for visitors. As we drew alongside him it was clear we were going to engage in conversation. His first words were "hello, I am famous." Great I thought, trust us to meet the town drunk as soon as we arrived! We were then subjected to a tirade of this gentleman's achievements in life which included being on the BBC and writing a number of books. "Thank you for telling us", I said, "but we are here for the camping". "Yes camping, come this way". It appears we have been talking to the proprietor of the campsite all along. Bit of a character is Tommaso. The entire campsite is dedicated to his infamy from meeting the Pope to climbing K2. There are photos all over the office and the reception and even a big portrait in the bog, all testament to the greatness of this man. I should have realised sooner. The large cape and giant 'S' across the chest were a bit of a giveaway!<br />
It was all a bit of a shock to begin with, but you warm to Tommaso, the Wolf Whisperer, especially if you have one of the drinks he invented. He calls it the 'drain cleaner' and I have to confess I have had no problems with any of my pipes since!<br />
Tommaso, this is a great little campsite but what about some toilet paper in the loos??<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-42003733932058765992013-07-19T18:36:00.002+01:002013-07-19T18:36:14.978+01:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
After a great trip through Albania we decided to drop down into Greece and chill out for a few days before getting a ferry from Patras to Bari in Italy. That's exactly what we did - beautiful beaches and good campsites, loads of beer and wine.<br />
The ferry from Patras was a bit of an experiment. There was an alternative ticket to sitting in an upright seat or a cabin called 'camping on board'. This rather intrigued us so we booked it to find out. Rather naively I was expecting the captain to visit us round the old campfire???<br />
It started of pleasantly enough. As the photo shows we had our own private balcony and virtually an empty deck. We had something to eat and a bottle of wine and after sunset, went to bed in our land rover quite contented with a gentle breeze blowing through the pop tent.<br />
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Camping on board with the truckers!</div>
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The view from our private balcony</div>
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Then it went wrong!<br />
At about 2am all hell broke loose. We had stopped at another port and there was the sound of chains and shackles being thrown about the deck and the noise of many V8 diesel engines as the deck filled with trucks for the journey to Bari. Our huge camping space was turned into a truck stop! You couldn't move on deck for trucks. In fact they packed them in so tightly we barely had space to get out of our vehicle! On top of that, at about 4am when we were underway again the wind increased from a gentle breeze to a howling gale, so much so that we were concerned it might damage the pop tent so we pulled it down and went to find a seat upstairs. We watched the greek translation of 'Captain America' on the telly and spent an uncomfortable few hours trying to sleep. This left Mr H a bit grumpy the next day, especially when the Sat Nav thought it amusing to send us on a tour of the docks in Bari instead of navigating us out. I don't think we'll try 'camping on board' again!<br />
Once out of the docks we headed for Sassi di Matera and were in for a bit of a treat. This town has a history going back 9,000 years! The old town is built into a ravine and basically are caves with a posh exterior. We took the plunge one evening to go into one of the restaurants and once inside it was basically a cave. A wonderful respite from the searing heat outside.<br />
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Sassi de Matera</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-79740838068476116622013-07-11T13:18:00.001+01:002013-07-11T13:18:31.233+01:00Albania - some final thoughts (Jerry Springer move over).<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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When we first told friends, relatives and neighbours that one of our destinations on this trip was Albania the reactions we received varied from "what for" to "god, are you taking a gun?" Well I have news for those who expressed an opinion. Albania is a fantastic destination, especially for overlanders. What Albanians lack in infrastructure (and they certainly have a big problem with roads) they more than make up for in their friendly and welcoming attitude to travellers. For 4x4 vehicles this is a must do paradise which will throw the toughest tracks at you. My only regret is that in the end I let my vertigo get the better of me, otherwise we would have done more challenging routes. But make no mistake, these roads have the potential to be dangerous. Would we do it again? Without hesitation, YES!. Although the campsites are far and few between there are opportunities for wild camping. All three campsites we stayed at had excellent and clean facilities and free wifi, and most importantly, access to alcohol. The two camps that we found in peoples back gardens at Berat Caravan Camping and Ksamil Caravan Camping were especially good.<br />
For those who may consider camping in Albania I'll post the gps co-ordinates at a later date.<br />
And with the final thoughts………some final photos.<br />
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Ferry crossing</div>
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Venetian Triangle Fort</div>
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At least the road out of Albania was better than the road in!!</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-61686690378008827352013-07-09T19:37:00.000+01:002013-07-09T19:37:52.989+01:00Ksamil<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Our stay at the Gjirokastra Hotel was very pleasant. A family run hotel with the children and grand children speaking good English (among other languages). It was a slightly different kettle of fish when dealing with the older members of the family. We decided to stay at the hotel for a meal on our first night. There was no menu ie something to point at, so trying to communicate what we wanted was .....fun. I did hear "pork" and "lamb" mentioned but our efforts in pursuing an order were unsuccessful. Then our host suggested "You want something to eat", probably in exasperation. Yes, we'll have "something eat" x2 and no olives please. Off she trotted and 20 mins later came back with "something to eat", which, although it remained anonymous, was very nice. This was yet another occasion where we met people and despite the language barrier, who fall over backwards to ensure your every need is met.<br />
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Time to move on and to the coast.</div>
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Enroute we found this beautiful natural spring called 'The Blue Eye" which I'm sure you will agree is very.....blue</div>
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Now I can't remember where I got the co-ordinates for our last campsite in Albania (but I didn't tell the co-pilot). So when we turned off the main road down a dirt track, past peoples gardens and loads of half built houses there was a lot of negativity in the cab!! After a few twists and turns we landed outside <a href="http://www.ksamilcaravancamping.com/">Ksamil Caravan Camping</a>. Another Albanian home that has turned its front and back yard into a campsite. The owner met us at the gate showed us round the emaculate shower and toilet facilities and before we had committed to staying, he insisted we sit in the shade and have an iced coffee. That sold it to us. We found our spot and spent a very pleasant two nights listening to the owners unending admiration for everything that England had done for Albania in the second world war. We would have loved to have stayed.</div>
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The pictures below show what happens when a greedy banker risks the wealth of the country for their next dodgy deal and they get caught. No threats to 'clamp down jolly hard on their bonuses' or force them to retire with great big fat pensions.. oh no. They tear down their house!!<br />
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These house construction have been pulled down by the government because the people who put them up were naughty! The place is littered with them (as England is littered with dodgy bankers).<br />
There were no building regs here a few years ago and the Government announced the building had to stop so gave a two month window, saying at the end of the two months arial photos would be taken and very building constructed on the photo would get planning permission and thereafter there would be strict laws. This kind of back fired and every blade of grass was built on in two months to qualify for the permission! Except some kept going. So the Government turned up and halted building as you see here.<br />
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And then we went to...................................................................</div>
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.............................................................the beach where there was some more feedback from the Government on planning regs.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-86596743446293435502013-07-06T18:56:00.002+01:002013-07-09T18:39:56.798+01:00Gjirokaster<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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While we were at the Shkodra campsite we met a really nice couple from Austria who had been this way before and they strongly recommended a visit to Gjirokaster in the very south of Albania. Our original plan was to go in to Macedonia and on through Bulgaria to Romania and Hungary but now had serious doubts about whether we had time considering that we had to be in Spain by the 22nd July. So we ditched the original plan and decided to visit Gjirokaster enroute to Greece where we would get a ferry back to Italy for our onward travel.</div>
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The road between Berat and Gjiroskaster was, as ever, interesting. There is a huge building program going on here and we experienced the worst and the best of Albanian roads. There is an excellent stretch of tarmac that is developing into a motorway but it doesn't last for long and I'm not sure it's a good idea to start covering the country in tarmac.</div>
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The owner of this house is a great fan of 'Grand Designs' apparently!</div>
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Well we thank our friends from Austria who recommended Gjirokaster. What a beautiful place. Gjirokastër is situated in a valley between the Gjerë mountains and the Drino River, and overlooked by the Gjirokastër Castle. The city has beautifully preserved cobbled streets. I hadn't quite expected to drive into the heart of the old town but that's what happened. What a nightmare. The road in suddenly went vertical - a really steep long hill and just before I could reach the sanctuary of the top a car came the other way and damn. I had to stop. I reversed slowly back to go into a side road to let this guy through and the land rover started slipping sideways on the cobbles which had been polished over the centuries clearly awaiting the arrival some hapless Englishman such as myself. I managed to slide our vehicle into the side street and regain some semblance of control. There was only one way out of this. Foot down and head for the summit and anyone coming the other way would have to give way. That worked but unfortunately the summit turned out to be the confluence of five medieval roads and there I was, plonked in the middle wondering where the hell to go. At this point an angel appeared. "Can I help you?" The owner of a shop had heard the arrival of our land rover and when she saw the harassed occupants she came out to assist. This, dear reader, is typical of the Albanian people. She then moved a big sign at the side of her shop and said you can park here. She asked if we had anywhere to stay, and we hand't, and she then started describing some local places in the city and further offered to telephone them to see if they had a vacancy. We finally settled on the Hotel Gjirokaster and leaving our vehicle outside her shop went to secure a room at the hotel.</div>
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Modern Gjirokastra behind the historical city</div>
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The spot we landed in at the top of the hill.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-78526302439721804332013-07-06T11:45:00.002+01:002013-07-06T11:50:38.274+01:00Shkodra and beyond.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Having survived the trauma of the road into Albania (although I have to admit when I wasn't being terrified I quite enjoyed it) we arrived at <a href="http://www.lakeshkodraresort.com/">Lake Shkodra Resort </a> very late. This is an excellent site with plenty of shade and very good facilities and the owners speak English! Always a bonus for linguistic neanderthals like us. The staff and owners couldn't be more helpful and we have no reservation in recommending this place, right on the beach of the lake, away from the road, it's an ideal spot. We decided this would be a rest day for us to recover a bit. </div>
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There are very few campsites in Albania but as we were about to experience, those we found had excellent facilities. Regrettably we only stayed long enough to recover. We would have liked to have stayed longer but were itching to see the rest of Albania. </div>
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Shkodra</div>
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Horse and cart still have a role here.</div>
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selling fruit from the back door of a garden</div>
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There are no rules here! First to the space gets it!</div>
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And that includes pedestrians.</div>
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We headed south toward the ancient city of Berat known to Albanians as The City of a Thousand Windows. The roads were........interesting. We did lots of bouncing around, swallowed a great deal of dust and you can't take your eyes off the road for a second. Just when you think you have a good stretch of road a cavernous whole will appear. Add into this mix numerous roadworks where roads are being built or improved and you can understand this isn't exactly relaxing driving. And there is no such thing here as roadworks causing traffic jams. No-one stops for anything, we just drive around the JCB's and other heavy plant. Mr Health and Safety and Mrs Risk Assessment are not known (or welcome) in these parts. This is truly a liberating driving experience. The pub landlord Al Murray is wrong! It's not France that 'has no rules'. It's Albania...and.....it works!</div>
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I had found the campsite co-ordinates on the internet so wasn't sure what to expect. I assumed we had gone wrong when we pulled into someones drive off of a dirt road but no - this is Berat Caravan Camping. Loads of space in the rear garden, nicely laid out and immaculate facilities. The Owners were wonderful hosts, speaking a little English and once again, couldn't do enough to make our stay perfect. That even included running out to our pitch when the electricity went off to apologise for losing the free wifi. "It will be back soon". This was another campsite we would have been happy to stay longer at.</div>
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The following day we drove to Berat and spent a few hours wondering this beautiful UNESCO World Heritage site.</div>
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Berat, city of a thousand windows</h4>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-49729356507850705642013-07-04T19:46:00.002+01:002013-07-06T09:52:11.552+01:00Albania<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Entering Albania by it's northern border with Montenegro was a happy mistake. It was a quiet border crossing and the border police were very laid back. So much so there was a bed in the office! They were very friendly and a taste of the incredible hospitality we were about to experience.<br />
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Following our trusty sat nav we trundled along a dirt road looking for the main road. We got to a junction and the tar road started to the right (but on the map went nowhere) and a rather more challenging track rose up a stiff incline to the left. We followed sat nav to the left and after about 30 mins of rocking and rolling in low ratio gear over a boulder strewn track, started to think this was the wrong route and began to condemn satellite navigation "in the most strongest terms". Well looby was - I was swearing my head off. We are talking extreme 4x4 route here. This couldn't possibly be the road. Then out of nowhere came white van man. There we were, treading lightly over a tough 4x4 track and this guy comes blasting around the bend, in an ordinary van ......and on his mobile phone! He passed in a flash and was gone. Without saying a word between us I think we agreed neither of us had seen that! Then about a quarter of a mile of bouncing around later, we encountered two Mercedes vehicles bouncing towards us and if that weren't bad enough, we were over taken by another van. It was unbelievable. Our vehicle is designed and modified for this type of track but these were standard vehicles travelling at (for the conditions) break-neck speeds. Sorry I keep calling this a track, I mean road, because that is what it is.....this <i><b>IS</b></i> the main road. </div>
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This ended up being the most intensive 4x4 driving we have done. It took us 6 hrs to do about 50 kilometres and many sections with shear drops off the side of the road and the road being barely passable for one vehicle! It didn't do a lot or my vertigo I can tell you. This is why there are few photos - I was too busy clinging to life! There will however be some video at some point.</div>
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And toward the end of the 'road of death'...</div>
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We didn't finish the 'road of death' until very late, fortunately getting off of the really dangerous stuff by dark. But only just. It was a relief to eventually arrive at Shkodar Resort campsite.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-46486390528939318082013-07-04T07:34:00.000+01:002013-07-04T07:34:17.328+01:00Montenegro<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
With the excitement of our first proper border crossings over we arrived in Zabliak in the Durmitor National Park somewhat jaded. With the Sat Nav becoming increasingly unreliable, in fact at times it was becoming a hindrance as turning up in peoples back gardens was becoming a hazard, we decided to turn it off if only to stop the annoying "recalculating" response we were getting every time we turned a corner. We had missed the turn for our campsite and were driving down the main town road when a dark blue sedan pulled up alongside us at a junction with the driver shouting at us. Thinking it was road rage I quickly drove on but this bloke kept pace with us, leaning across the passenger seat of his car still shouting. This must have given the impression of a slow time drag race down the main street of this town! I eventually pulled over and it turns out this guy was trying to offer us a campsite! We had a long and disjointed conversation with him and after about 10 mins he said "You follow me" and he jumped back in his car. We followed slowly discussing the pros and cons of following him and when we got to a junction he turned left and we scooted off to the right. Within seconds he was in the rear view mirror, flashing his headlights. We are now thinking this is a prelude to a car-jacking. As it turns out he was only trying to earn a living and although we declined his offer, to show there were no hard feelings he said he would take us to the campsite we were looking for. We regretted this decision later.<br />
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Kod Boce campsite</h4>
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It was late when we arrived at the site so didn't take much in and went straight to bed. Next morning we woke to mountains all around and decided to have breakfast on the veranda of the 'kitchen' block. After about 5 mins we had some company. Hundreds of flies. In fact so many we had to run for cover in the land rover. There we were, cornflakes in hand, sitting like two quivering extras in Hitchcock film, trapped in our vehicle with clouds of flies gathering waiting for us to make our next move. Having both been eaten alive by bugs of one sort or another in Italy, and still having the bites to prove it there was only one question to ask.....do these things bite. My suggestion that Looby should put her arm out to see was quickly rejected so we went for plan 'B' which was to pack up and move on swiftly.<br />
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Kod Boce - great view, but fly city.</div>
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Our first day in the Durmitor and we got off the beaten track for a few photos.</div>
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The place is absolutely magnificent and we only scratched the surface. The people are very very friendly but for those wishing to camp, you will only find very basic facilities. The second night we spent at Ivan Do where there were far fewer flies. In fact there were no flies on Ivan at all as we had forgotten to confirm the price of camping with him on entering his field the night before and subsequently ended up paying an extra few euro!<br />
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Moving on from Durmitor was hampered by the sat nav getting all confused again and we got an unexpected tour of the back roads of northern Montenegro which included driving through the scrap yard of a gypsy encampment....which was nice!<br />
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This rather erratic route lead us to the northern most border entry point with Albania. The crossing was a pleasant enough experience with the border police very relaxed. As we travelled down the unmade track we eagerly awaited the tar road. It never came. You would not believe this route unless you travelled it yourself. It was extreme 4 x 4 driving and as we were about to experience, roads are not Albania's strong point but must wait for the next entry.<br />
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Entering Albania</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-28874655398234520392013-07-03T18:42:00.002+01:002013-07-03T18:42:11.704+01:00Meeting Boris on the way to Montenegro<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Montenegro</h2>
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We had met a really nice family from Slovenia at the Krka campsite and left rather later than planned as we shared a Jack Daniels with 'Robbie' the night before and left a little more blurry eyed than anticipated. The route to the border was relatively uneventful. We came across these ancient burial stones that were quite impressive. No explanation I'm afraid - couldn't read the signs.</div>
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Things did get a little more exciting at the Bosnian border however. We handed over our passports and vehicle document and after the border policeman studied them at great length he grunted (and you must say this quickly to get a flavour of the event) "green card, green card". Oh dear, Stephen hasn't done his homework. We don't have a 'green card green card'. Again he barked "greencardgreencard". You will notice it has now all rolled into one word and become a little bit more urgent. The demands for a "greencardgreencard"came thick and fast until I was able to get a word in and confess in the most pathetic voice I could muster "I don't have one". He fell silent, looked me straight in the eye and said "No greencardgreencard very bad. You go there" and pointed to a portakabin style building where several other policemen waited. Sloping off, tail between my legs, I headed in the direction indicated. Once inside the building the whole charade started again with demands for "greencardgreencard" this time with a younger officer who got even more excited and to "No greencardgreencard" he was able to add "This is big problem". After several minutes of uttering that it was a big problem I meekly asked "Can't I just buy a "greencardgreencard?" He stumbled for a minute and then said "yes" and pointed to another building. Ten minutes later I came back and in true Neville Chamberlain style was able to declare that the piece of paper that I held in my hand was indeed a "greencardgreencard". Showing it to the officer he then instructed me to "take it to Boris". Now, I don't remember being introduced to Boris, but I assumed this was the first policemen we bumped into. Thrusting our piece of paper under Boris' nose he mumbled "ok" and off we went. So, after all that, it cost us 15 euro for not doing our homework!<br />
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Bosnia</h2>
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Speeding through Bosnia to get to the Montenegro border in time (hence only two photos) we wondered what was waiting for us at that border as we now know we need a "greencardgreencard" for there too but there was no need to worry. Arriving late in the afternoon we were met by an entirely different approach. "No green card sir? I know a man who will sell you green card". We were directed to the man and Stephen not doing his homework cost 25 euro this time. The pain was soon forgotten however within a few hundred metres when we saw the view. We had come to Montenegro to stay in the Durmitor National Park and still had some way to go but this was a taster of what was to come:<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-26066049911057371742013-07-03T08:01:00.000+01:002013-10-07T22:08:32.719+01:00Croatia<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Coatia</h2>
Finally escaping the heat of Venice we headed for the slightly cooler climate of Croatia. Cooler in more respects than the climate. We met Mrs Grumpy at border control and 60 miles further on met her younger sister at the campsite. This was a little confusing as we had heard so much about the Croation/Slovenian hospitality. Perhaps we were using the wrong smile. Our first campsite was at Pineta, or as I prefer to call it 'rip off camping are us'. 33 Euro per night - internet extra, paid for by the hour! When we commented on the price as we left it was explained it was because we had a 'sea view'. Apparently there were cheaper pitches but you have to ask for them specifically. And the 'sea view'? Well it was through the 50/60 tents and caravans in front of us and yes I did see some blue but I'm sure it was someone's underwear flapping in the breeze rather than the rolling sea!<br />
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Moving swiftly on, we spent all day travelling south to a campsite that promised more. Camp Krka restored our confidence. Avery warm welcome and the staff at the family run site could not do enough to accommodate your stay. Terrific atmosphere and very relaxed, exactly the opposite to Pineta and internet included at 12 Euro per night. So, fellow travellers to Croatia, it pays to shop around. There are hundreds of sights here that don't appear in any of the internet sites or books we have looked at.<br />
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We have spent a very pleasant day relaxing here and going on an excursion arranged by the camp to the Krka National Park. Makes a change from driving ourselves. Pics as follows:<br />
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Yes! I continue to take photos when under the influence of vino!</div>
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I've never been fishing in my life but I think even I could catch one here!</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-88394488849319606792013-06-23T20:54:00.002+01:002013-07-08T07:49:31.330+01:00Venice<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Venice</h2>
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We decided to have an extra day at the campsite in Venice to recover from the previous four days exertions. Obviously getting too old. Last night we got back well after dark having spent several hours admiring the place under the spell of a full moon and very nice it was too. A heady mixture of full moon, atmosphere and a rather nice bottle of vino lead to my promising Mrs H we would return and stay at the Danieli Hotel as a posh treat but after looking it up on the internet, 800 euros per night (off season) I was rather relieved she had no recollection the next morning.</div>
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A final selection of pics from Venice. Tomorrow thunderstorms threaten and we are off to Croatia.</div>
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Hard work blogging!</div>
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We came across the following scene of a large crowd gathered and hung around a while to see what was happening. Thinking that perhaps Brad Pitt or some other diva was about to appear it turns out this is the closest Venice comes to a gang fight. Two groups of musicians arrive by gondola on either side of the canal then the singers gather on each bank and proceed to sing seven shades of song out of each other. Absolutely marvellous. When each side had had a good singing everyone makes off before the cops get there.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-53073273708610782682013-06-22T14:41:00.000+01:002013-07-08T07:50:25.670+01:00Comacchio and Venice<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Comacchio and Venice</b></h2>
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First stop after Certaldo was Comacchio on the coast. Fairly decent campsite called Ancona with good facilities. Only downer was that, being on the coast it was very commercial and noisy with people enjoying themselves until about 11pm. Yes...you heard me ...enjoying themselves. I must say we got quite a chuckle at listening to the various karaoke turns from a quite impressive 'Dean Martin' sound-a-like to Sophie, who made such a good job of strangling Madonna's 'Like a Virgin' that the stage was declared a crime scene for about 20 minutes! But the most impressive turn of the night was the whole crowd, whatever nationality, singing Pink Floyds 'Brick in the Wall' perfectly in English. Brilliant!</div>
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Anyway, temperatures have continued to rise into late 30c and heaven knows what the humidity is but just lying in bed the sweat pours off of us. Sorry if that was too much detail. It all means we are going through vino quicker than the land rover is going through diesel!</div>
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Comacchio. A beautiful spot, very photographic with a great wetland wildlife area a few kilometres away. The perfect scenario for me.</div>
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One of the unfortunate things about the time we got to Comacchio was the time of day which for photography wasn't good. I did however spend a pleasant few hours photographing the remarkable reflections in the canals. </div>
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The trip from Comacchio to Venice was relatively straight forward on Italy's moderately priced motorways (compared to the extortion of France and Switzerland) but once off the paid road the quality of road surface is, like England, fast becoming a 4x4 paradise. That must be why our politicians prefer to fly everywhere!<br />
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Our sat nav had been pretty good up to now but once we hit road works in Mestre the poor old thing had a coronary attack which tended to raise the drivers blood pressure somewhat. If we heard sat nav say "recalculating" once we must have heard it 20 times in the space of 15 mines. It got so bad we had to switch on the air-con to cool the driver down. Mrs sat nav took over the map reading and manually guided us through although I didn't appreciate her calmly announcing "recalculating" if I went wrong to her instructions.</div>
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Having negotiated Mestre we arrived at our campsite in good time and what a little gem it is. Camping Miremare. Beautiful site, well laid out and loads of shade. It is very well serviced. There is even a man comes round to sweep away the leaves from your pitch! Very reasonably priced at 25 euro per night. It has free wifi internet (exceptionally fast) and a free bus to the ferry to Venice but it's only a 700 mtr walk.<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Venice</h2>
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We have been to Venice before but in February, and I think that is the best time to visit. The heat and crowds of summer considerably dampen the atmosphere. We are already planning another trip back here for the winter. Venice without the crowds in Feb/March is definately the way to go. Among the photos here you may notice the tourists who were caught in a torrential downpour of sunshine but fortunately they had their brollies with them!<br />
Apart from the crowds and heat a photographer in venice has to struggle with the graffiti. I don't remember it being as bad last time but that was 12yrs ago. I'd gladly pay good money to see a graffiti artist executed at dawn each day!<br />
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Well that's up-to-date to 22/06/13.<br />
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Steve and Looby</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-48648783601293027092013-06-21T20:37:00.002+01:002013-07-08T07:51:29.431+01:00Ere you sure it's this way?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We finally got our "Are you sure it's this way?" European tour under way on 9th June 2013 and 13 days later i am getting ear ache that I haven't put anything in a blog so here goes with a few photographs.<br />
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We didn't do any sight seeing on the way to our first major stop which was Certaldo, about 30 miles south of Florence. So France was a motorway blur and Switzerland the same but more expensive. Still, it would have been rude not to take a few pics in the Alps and I wish we had time for more.....next time!<br />
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A beautiful place to stop for a spot of lunch.<br />
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The weather up to the Alps was awful. Drizzle and overcast. Once on the Italian side the heat hit you like a hot wet blanket. It was like landing on another planet. Now there was a real sense that we were away. The campsite in Italy took a bit of finding but worth it. We were upset that we couldn't stay longer. Tenuta Squaneto in North west Italy was well off the beaten track, but with fantastic facilities and unbelievably a pool. Run by a very friendly Dutch couple, Barbera Witschge was particularly helpful in giving us directions to a local garage when I realised that I had left the locking fuel cap behind in France when we filled up! We found the garage ok but because we have long range fuel tanks we do not have a standard land rover cap!! The guy who owned the garage was fantastic. He spoke not a word of English but wouldn't let us leave without hunting high and low for a temporary replacement. Then responded with a firm shake of the head when I asked 'How much?'</div>
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Camping at Tenuta Squaneto</div>
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Then we found one of the delights of continually going round in circles trying to get back on our route. A beautiful stone bridge and field of wheat and poppies.</div>
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We finally arrived at Certaldo on the 4th day of travel, staying in a room at Casachianti about 8 miles from town. We have stayed here before and it was great to meet the owner Cristina Chiti again after 10yrs. This is a great place to stay with a marvellous restaurant attached and magnificent sunsets:</div>
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The view from the terrace at Casachianti</div>
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The scenery around this part of Tuscany is terrific for photography and this time we got well off the beaten track. Unfortunately this often meant ending up in someones back yard but no-one really bothers. We just smile and say we are English and everyone understands.<br />
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<span style="text-align: left;">Certaldo is a beautifully preserved medieval town that prides itself on it's greatest father Giovanni Boccaccio, the 14th century author of The Decameron, and takes every opportunity to celebrates his lifeand work. On this particular ocassion we were attending ‘A cena da Messer Boccaccio‘ (“Dinner with Boccaccio”) which was celebrating the writers 700th birthday.</span></div>
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As we didn't want to stagger far after the banquet we stayed at the Il Castello hotel which sits right at the bottom of the street the banquet is held in. A good plan eh?? The trouble is, when the banquet concludes, there are another three or four lively bars to negotiate before seeking refuge in a hotel room. This resulted in an extra night in the hotel to "aid recovery".</div>
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Next stop will be Comacchio and then Venice.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-66233487225694761062012-05-04T16:41:00.000+01:002013-05-04T14:03:31.708+01:00The Custom Campers conversion<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">Theroadtooverthere adventure came a bit closer this week when we picked up Leonard from Germany after he had been transformed by metallbaumeister Ralf Hilwerling of Custom Campers. On the basis that we are getting too old to be leaping about on roof tents we have sold the roof rack and tent and invested in a bit more security by having a pop roof put on the vehicle. There was a lot of heart searching and internet trawling looking for this solution and after hearing great things about Custom Campers in Germany from John Huntsman in Lincoln, we decided to go to Germany last summer to see for ourselves. It was a great trip (which took in Poland and the Czech Republic) and Mr Hilwerling was an excellent host speaking perfect English (and French, and Spanish, and Italian....etc). Sickening really for an Englishman what struggles wiv is own language! Having discussed options with Ralf and impressed with the quality and finish of the other projects we saw in his workshop we returned to England totally confident that this was the man to transform our vehicle and the only disappointment was that we had to wait 8 months to get our work done.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>So, in March 2012 it was off with the old......<br />
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....and on with the new.....<br />
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Custom Campers have done a fantastic job and totally transformed the way we will travel. Select 'Converting Leonard' under Overland Preparation for detail photographs of the transformation. </div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3511343702343146105.post-33002994485799920632011-04-23T20:17:00.003+01:002012-05-04T14:20:56.159+01:00The beginning.....Travelling started for us in 2001. With the kids growed up and gone (although I notice we still regularly contribute to two bank accounts 'bottomless pit' and 'prodigal son') we decided to conquer our fear of flying and start to enjoy the planet. This we did on 14 September 2001. Yep, scared of flying and we start our adventures 3 days after 9/11 when so many lost there lives to those cowardly gutter snipes that still plague our world in one form or another. <br />
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Each trip we made got a bit more adventurous. Several trips to Greece and Italy and then (lets try another continent) Morocco. Loadsa colour, beautiful skies, lots of sand...a photographers delight. Nepal and the wonderful Himalaya followed and despite Looby being hospitalised for three days this was the trip that really inspired our hunger for 'proper' travel. Then I started getting dreams and reality confused (an age thing). I thought I had dreamt of doing the Inca Trail but as it turned out I actually booked a three week trip to Peru which finished with walking the glorious Inca Trail. More steps than you can shake a stick at culminating in one of the most emotional travel experiences I have encountered, walking through the Sun Gate at the end of the trail to see the magnificent Machu Picchu bathed in the sun below. Breathtaking.<br />
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Lets be more adventurous I said. An overland trip from Istanbul to Ashgabat (where?). You know sweetheart, the Silk Road. Will it be warm in March? Of course, you'll love it. Well, warm wasn't in the meteorlogical abuse that was hurled at me as we travelled across the snow bound mountains of Northern Turkey! We travelled in a Dragoman overland truck and in fact when it came to our turn to cook for 16 people we did it over two burners in the snow and while it was snowing. The meal even got 3 Drago stars (equivelent to 1 Micheline star apparently). Did we enjoy all this hardship...you betchya. Bring it on, this planet is starting to get interesting.<br />
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We got the taste for continent hopping so Africa next but being a greedy bugger I didn't just want those photos of the wildlife, oh no. Two weeks camping in and around the Serengeti and Masai Mara were followed by climbing the highest free standing mountain in the world, Kilimanjaro. It nearly killed us both but we did it. Scarred with blisters, sceptic in-grown toe nails (sorry too much detail) and ravaged by altitude sickness we did it. Don't be fooled by the photograph, the guide propped us up against the sign for the photo! I don't think we have ever put so much effort into 7 days! It was very satisfying.<br />
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On the plane back from Africa we decided we liked the idea of being more independant with our travel. Our own vehicle at our own pace. So two weeks later on the way to wedding we purchased 'Leonard', an 12mth old Land Rover Defender. "Stick a roof rack and tent on it john" I said to the salesman and a new obsession began.....<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02461882666828103781noreply@blogger.com0